Khunjerab National Park

Khunjerab was established in 1975 to protect the high country along the border, and the Karakoram Highway runs straight through it, which makes it one of the few places where genuinely high-altitude wildlife can be seen from a vehicle. Above Sost the valley opens into rolling tundra and the road climbs steadily to the Khunjerab Pass at around 4,700 metres, the paved border crossing into China and a destination in itself for the gate photographs and the thin-air giddiness. Ibex are seen regularly from the road, golden marmots whistle from the verges, and blue sheep graze the slopes; the park is also core snow leopard habitat, though sightings are rare. Yaks belonging to the Wakhi communities graze under agreement inside the park. Weather changes fast at this altitude and snow can fall in any month.

What you actually see

• The Khunjerab Pass - the 4,700-metre border gate on the highway.
• Roadside wildlife - ibex, marmots and blue sheep near the tarmac.
• High tundra - open plateau country above the treeline.
• The highway itself - the top section of the great mountain road.

When to go

May to October; the pass is closed by snow through the winter and the border gate operates seasonally. Early morning gives the best wildlife activity and the calmest weather. Even in July, warm clothing is essential at the top.

Honest expectations

The altitude is the real hazard: driving from Sost to 4,700 metres in an hour brings on headaches and worse for some visitors, and exertion at the pass should be minimal. Facilities are a checkpoint and little else. Snow leopard sightings are a lottery not to be promised. The pass itself is a road gate with a border fence, not a scenic summit.

Nearby

Sost is the last town; Chapursan and Shimshal valleys branch off below.