Muscat and Mutrah

Muscat, the capital of Oman, is one of the most elegant and characterful cities in the Gulf, a low-rise, gleaming-white city that hugs the coast between rugged mountains and the sea, its skyline of forts, palaces and mosques kept deliberately traditional. Its atmospheric old heart is Mutrah, with its curving corniche promenade, the sultan's waterfront palace guarded by old Portuguese forts, and the labyrinthine Mutrah souq, one of the oldest and most enchanting markets in the Arab world.

What you actually see

• The Mutrah souq - the atmospheric old market of frankincense and silver.
• The corniche - the waterfront promenade beneath the mountains.
• The forts and palace - the Portuguese forts and the sultan's palace.
• The Royal Opera House - the elegant modern opera house.

When to go

October to April for the pleasant cool season, as summers are extremely hot; the corniche and souq are especially atmospheric in the cooler evening. Ramadan changes hours and dining, so check if visiting then.

Honest expectations

Muscat is elegant and safe but low-key, spread out along the coast, so a car or taxis are needed to link its sights, and it is a relaxed, refined city rather than a place of blockbuster monuments or nightlife. The souq, while atmospheric, is smaller and more tourist-oriented than the great bazaars of Istanbul or Marrakech. Its charm is its calm dignity.

Nearby

The Grand Mosque is in the city; the mountains, wadis and desert lie beyond.