León

León, in the hot northwestern lowlands, is Nicaragua's spirited university city, long a centre of politics, art and revolution, with a grittier, more vibrant edge than genteel Granada. Its heart is the vast Cathedral of León, the largest in Central America and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, whose gleaming white roof you can climb for volcano views. Revolutionary murals, lively student life, poets' homes and churches fill the streets, while nearby volcanoes draw adventurers to the thrilling sport of volcano boarding.

History

The first León was founded in 1524 by Francisco Hernández de Córdoba about 30 kilometres east of the present city and abandoned in 1610 after a series of earthquakes set off by a volcanic eruption; its ruins, León Viejo, became a World Heritage Site in 2000. The new Santiago de los Caballeros de León had been the capital since colonial times and remained so when Nicaragua left the United Provinces of Central America in 1839, but for some years the capital moved back and forth between León and Granada until Managua became the permanent capital in 1852. Its National Autonomous University of Nicaragua, founded in 1812, is the second oldest in Central America, the poets Rubén Darío, Alfonso Cortés and Salomón de la Selva made their homes here, and in 1950 the city had 31,000 people (Wikipedia, León, Nicaragua).

What to look for

• The Cathedral of León - the vast white cathedral and its rooftop.
• The revolutionary murals - the political street art and museums.
• Volcano boarding - the descent of Cerro Negro on a board.
• The churches and galleries - the colonial churches and Ortiz gallery.

When to go

November to April, the dry season, for the best weather, though León is famously hot year-round; the nearby Cerro Negro volcano runs volcano-boarding trips in the dry months. The city's student energy and nightlife are liveliest during term time.

Good to know

León is hotter, grittier and less polished than Granada, so its appeal is authentic city life, culture, revolutionary history and adventure rather than pristine prettiness. The great cathedral, the murals, the vibrant student atmosphere and the adrenaline of volcano boarding, though, make it a rewarding, characterful base.

Nearby

The Cerro Negro volcano and the Pacific beaches at Las Peñitas are close.

Key facts