Smalahove

Smalahove is a sheep's head, singed to remove the wool, split, salted, sometimes smoked, and then steamed for hours and served whole on the plate with mashed swede and potato. It was originally food for the poor, using a part of the animal that would otherwise be wasted, and it has become a delicacy and a ritual in the Voss area, eaten in the autumn weeks before Christmas. There is an etiquette to it: the ear and the eye are eaten first, and the cheek is the best meat. The brain is no longer served, having been prohibited during the BSE precautions of the 1990s. Restaurants around Voss run smalahove seasons, and it is often accompanied by aquavit.

What you actually see

• The whole head - a split sheep's head served intact on the plate.
• The eating order - ear and eye first, cheek last, by convention.
• The accompaniments - mashed swede, potato and aquavit.
• The autumn season - restaurant servings in the weeks before Christmas.

When to go

October to December, the traditional season; Voss and the surrounding district are the heartland and several restaurants there specialise in it. Booking is usual as it is prepared to order.

Honest expectations

The presentation is confronting: a recognisable head with teeth and an eye socket, which many visitors find difficult before tasting anything. The meat is fatty and salty. The brain is not served under current food rules, contrary to older accounts.

Nearby

Voss is the centre of the tradition; Bergen and the Hardangerfjord lie west and south.