Ranighat Durbar

Khadga Shumsher Rana, governor at Tansen, built this palace in 1893 on a rock above the Kali Gandaki in memory of his wife Tej Kumari, and the result is peculiar and rather moving: a European-influenced white building with arcades, balustrades and a tower, standing entirely alone on a river bend with forested hills around and no settlement in sight. It is sometimes called the Taj Mahal of Nepal, which oversells the comparison but conveys the intention. The palace fell into ruin over the twentieth century and has been partly restored; the interiors are largely empty. The way most people come is the walk down from Tansen through villages and terraces, three hours or so, returning by jeep along the rough river track.

What you actually see

• The isolated palace - a white arcaded building alone on the river bend.
• The Kali Gandaki - the river running below the rock.
• The walk down - three hours through villages and terraces from Tansen.
• Empty interiors - the restored shell without furnishing.

When to go

October to April for the walk and the river; the trail is hard in monsoon and the river high. Mornings are cooler for the descent. The return by jeep needs arranging in advance.

Honest expectations

The walk down is three hours and the climb back is much harder, so most people arrange a jeep for the return. The palace is an empty restored shell with no displays. Facilities at the site are minimal. The jeep track is rough.

Nearby

Tansen lies above; the Kali Gandaki runs south toward the Terai.