Shey Phoksundo Lake

Phoksundo lies at 3,611 metres in Dolpo, about five kilometres long and around 145 metres deep, which makes it the deepest lake in Nepal, and its colour is the reason people come: an intense turquoise with no vegetation in the water at all, held in a bowl of steep rock and blue pine. The approach passes a waterfall of more than 160 metres, among the highest in the country, and climbs a cliff path to the lake rim above it. Ringmo village on the shore is Bon and Tibetan Buddhist, with a Bon gompa on the far side, and the trail beyond continues into Upper Dolpo. Access means a flight to Juphal and three days of walking, so the lake sees few visitors and lodges are simple.

What you actually see

• The turquoise water - Nepal's deepest lake, colour without vegetation.
• The waterfall - over 160 metres on the approach below the rim.
• Ringmo village - the Bon and Tibetan settlement on the shore.
• Tshowa gompa - the Bon monastery above the far shore.

When to go

May to October. Dolpo sits in the rain shadow, so the monsoon is far less severe here than in the rest of Nepal and summer is a usable season. Winter closes the trails and the airstrip. Autumn is clearest.

Honest expectations

The approach involves a flight to Juphal that is often cancelled and three days of walking with a steep cliff section. Lodges at Ringmo are simple and food is limited. Swimming is not permitted; the lake is sacred. Altitude affects some visitors on arrival.

Nearby

Dunai lies south; Upper Dolpo begins north of the lake.