Tansen

Tansen climbs a steep hillside at around 1,350 metres above the Kali Gandaki valley, a Newar trading town that grew on the route between the Terai and Tibet and kept its bazaar character: stepped lanes too steep for vehicles, brick houses with carved windows, and workshops still making things, notably dhaka cloth, the geometric handwoven fabric used for the Nepali topi cap, and metalwork in brass and copper. The Tansen Durbar, a Rana-era palace, stands at the centre with a large gateway. Srinagar hill above the town gives a Himalayan panorama, and the walk down to Ranighat palace on the river is the standard excursion. It sees few foreign visitors compared with the trekking towns.

What you actually see

• Stepped bazaar lanes - streets too steep for vehicles through the town.
• Dhaka weaving - the geometric cloth woven for topi caps.
• Metal workshops - brass and copper worked in the lanes.
• Srinagar hill - the viewpoint above town for the Himalayan line.

When to go

October to April for clear views and comfortable walking; October and November are best for the mountains. The town is warm compared with the higher hills. Monsoon brings cloud and heavy rain.

Honest expectations

The town is very steep and walking it is hard work. Accommodation and food choice are limited. The Ranighat walk takes three hours down and longer back, or a jeep. Facilities for visitors are basic.

Nearby

Ranighat Durbar lies below on the river; Butwal is south.