Sidi Kaouki Beach

Sidi Kaouki is a beach of several kilometres of coarse sand backed by low dunes, twenty-five kilometres south of Essaouira, with a small settlement of surf camps, cafes and guesthouses at one end and the white koubba of the saint the beach is named for standing on the rocks above the water. The wind is the constant: the same north-easterly trade that gives Essaouira its reputation blows here without the shelter of a harbour, which makes it a serious kitesurfing and windsurfing beach and a difficult one for swimming. Surf schools operate on the beach break and horses and camels are offered along the sand. The atmosphere is low-key - a handful of buildings rather than a resort - and it empties completely out of season. The Atlantic is cold and the current runs; drownings have occurred and there is no lifeguard outside the summer season.

What you actually see

• A wind-driven beach - the Essaouira trade blowing without harbour shelter.
• The saint's koubba - a white tomb standing on the rocks above the water.
• Surf and kite schools - operating on the beach break through the season.
• Very little else - a handful of camps and cafes rather than a resort.

When to go

April to October for the wind; any time for the walk. Half a day.

Honest expectations

The wind is relentless and makes lying on the beach unpleasant. The current is strong and lifeguards are seasonal at best. The water is cold year round. Out of season most businesses close.

Nearby

Essaouira is north; Cap Sim and its dunes lie between them.