Paradise Beach near Asilah

South of the whitewashed walls of Asilah the coast opens into a long run of pale sand backed by low dunes and fields, and the stretch known locally as Paradise Beach is where people from the town go to swim and ride horses. Getting there means a rough track off the coast road, which is why it stays emptier than the beach in front of Asilah itself. There is no development beyond a few seasonal shacks selling grilled fish and tea in summer, and out of season there is nothing at all. The Atlantic here is open and cold, with a shore break strong enough to knock you over, and the wind blows most afternoons.

What you actually see

• The open sand - a wide beach that runs for kilometres with no buildings.
• The dunes - low sand and scrub behind the beach, crossed by tracks.
• Horses and camels - rides hired along the sand through the summer.
• The Atlantic shore break - heavy surf that keeps the water lively.

When to go

June to September is the swimming season and the only time the beach shacks are open. July and August bring crowds and parked cars at the access point. May and October are pleasant for walking but cool for swimming. Afternoons are windy, so mornings are calmer; go early if you want the sand to yourself.

Honest expectations

The access track is sandy and rutted, and ordinary cars do get stuck; agreeing a taxi fare both ways is simpler. There are no lifeguards, no shade and no facilities outside the summer months, and litter builds up after busy weekends. The name is generous: this is a plain, big, windy Atlantic beach rather than anything tropical.

Nearby

The painted medina of Asilah and its sea walls are a short drive north, and Tangier is under an hour away.