Talassemtane National Park

Talassemtane covers the limestone mountains east of Chefchaouen, and its reason for protection is a tree: the Moroccan fir, which grows nowhere else and forms dark stands on the higher slopes alongside cedar, pine and holm oak. Below the forest the rock is cut by deep gorges and springs, and paths link villages where mules still carry loads and terraced fields climb the hillsides. Jebel Lakraa, at over two thousand metres, is the usual summit walk, a long day out from Chefchaouen with views down towards the Mediterranean on a clear morning. This is walking country rather than a place with visitor centres, and most people arrange a local guide in Chefchaouen.

What you actually see

• The Moroccan fir forests - stands of a tree found only in these mountains.
• Jebel Lakraa - the long ridge walk that is the park's standard summit.
• The gorges and springs - limestone canyons cut by the rivers below the forest.
• The mountain villages - terraced fields and mule paths on the slopes.

When to go

Late spring and early autumn are the walking seasons, with wildflowers in May and stable weather in September and October. Summer is hot on the lower slopes and better spent in the river gorges. Winter brings snow on the ridges and rain that makes the paths slick. Arrange a guide a day ahead in Chefchaouen.

Honest expectations

There is very little infrastructure: no marked trail network worth relying on, patchy signage and few facilities once you leave the road. Walking without a local guide is not sensible, and guides vary a great deal in quality and in English. Access roads are narrow and slow. The hills are farmed intensively, so parts of the park edge look worn rather than pristine.

Nearby

Chefchaouen sits at the western edge, and the Akchour waterfalls are the park's most visited corner.