Kalinte

Kalinte, also written calentita, is chickpea flour, water, oil, salt and egg whisked into a thin batter, poured into a large shallow tray and baked in a hot oven until it sets into something between a flan and a savoury cake - firm at the edges, soft in the middle, with a browned top. It is cut into squares, served in paper with cumin and salt scattered over and often a piece of bread, and eaten standing. Its name and its form point to the Mediterranean family that includes the Genoese farinata, Nice's socca and the Gibraltarian calentita, and it reached Tangier through the same trade and migration that made the city what it is - it is generally understood as a Spanish or Italian arrival that became a Tangier street food. Sellers work fixed corners in the mornings and afternoons. It costs a few dirhams and is one of the few cheap street foods particular to the north.

What you actually see

• Chickpea flour baked - a thin batter set in a tray between a flan and a cake.
• Cut and served hot - squares in paper with cumin and salt, eaten standing.
• A Mediterranean cousin - the same family as farinata, socca and calentita.
• A northern speciality - particular to Tangier and the surrounding towns.

When to go

October to April, mornings and afternoons. Half an hour.

Honest expectations

It is plain and mild - people expecting a strong flavour are underwhelmed. It is best hot and unpleasant cold. Sellers work fixed corners and irregular hours. It is a northern thing and hard to find in the south.

Nearby

Tangier's medina and Grand Socco corners; Tetouan has its own sellers.