Bouhachem Nature Reserve

Bouhachem covers a stretch of the western Rif between Chefchaouen, Tetouan and Larache - cork oak on the lower slopes, holm oak higher, and stands of Moroccan fir on the ridges, in one of the wettest parts of the country. The reserve's significance is the Barbary macaque, the only macaque outside Asia and the only primate native north of the Sahara; the Bouhachem population is among the northernmost and has been studied here for years, and it is more genuinely wild than the roadside groups in the Middle Atlas, where feeding by visitors has changed the animals' behaviour and health. Sightings here take patience and a guide who knows where the troops are. The forest also holds otter in the streams, and raptors including Bonelli's eagle. Villages within the reserve run a small amount of community tourism with guesthouses and guides.

What you actually see

• Wild Barbary macaques - unhabituated troops, unlike the roadside groups further south.
• Cork oak and Moroccan fir - forest layered by altitude in a very wet part of the Rif.
• Community guiding - village guesthouses and guides who know the troop movements.
• Otter and raptors - in the streams and on the ridges.

When to go

Spring and autumn. A day. Early morning for the macaques.

Honest expectations

There is no visitor infrastructure - no marked trails, hides or signage. Sightings are not guaranteed and need a guide. Tracks are rough and impassable after rain. Do not feed macaques anywhere in Morocco; it is the main threat to them.

Nearby

Chefchaouen is east; Tetouan is north.