Tsetserleg

Tsetserleg is one of the more attractive provincial capitals in Mongolia, set against the rocky Bulgan hill with pine on its slopes and a large painted Buddha on the rock face above the town. Its main sight is the Zayain Gegeenii Sum, a monastery complex founded in the eighteenth century that escaped complete destruction and now houses the Arkhangai provincial museum, with religious art, traditional dress, herding equipment and archaeology arranged through the old temple buildings. A path climbs the hill behind for a view over the town and the valley. Tsetserleg is also the practical stop on the central circuit: it has banks, a market, mechanics and the Fairfield café and guesthouse, long established and known to every traveller crossing central Mongolia, which explains a good deal of its reputation.

What you actually see

• Zayain Gegeenii Sum museum - the old monastery housing the provincial collection.
• The hill Buddha - the painted image on the rock above the town.
• The hill walk - a short climb for views over Tsetserleg.
• Practical services - market, banks and travellers' café.

When to go

May to September for the roads; the town works year-round but winter is severe. The museum keeps regular hours and closes on some days, so check. Summer is when the central circuit traffic passes through.

Honest expectations

The town is small and a day covers it. The museum is old-fashioned in presentation with limited English labelling. Accommodation is basic guesthouses and ger camps. It is more useful as a resupply and rest point than as a destination.

Nearby

Taikhar Chuluu is west; Tsenkher hot springs lie south.