Baldan Bereeven Monastery

Baldan Bereeven was founded in 1654 and grew into one of the three largest monasteries in Mongolia, with several thousand monks living in a complex of temples in a bowl of the Khentii hills. It was destroyed in 1937 and left in ruins for sixty years; restoration began in the late 1990s with international support and several temples have been rebuilt while others remain as foundations, so the site shows both states at once. The surroundings are the unusual part: the granite outcrops around the monastery are carved and painted with Buddhist images, mantras and figures, some large, put there over centuries by monks, and walking among them takes as long as the buildings do. A small monastic community has returned. The valley is quiet and green and sees very few visitors.

History

The lama Tsevendorj founded the monastery in 1654 with about 1500 lamas, hoping to create a place like Lumbini for Mongolian pilgrims who could not travel far. The main temple was completed in 1776 and the great hall, almost 30 metres square and nearly 12 metres high, in 1813; by 1850 the monastery had four colleges, more than twenty temples and nearly 8000 monks (Wikipedia, Baldan Bereeven Monastery).

What's there

• Restored temples - rebuilt halls alongside unrestored foundations.
• Rock carvings - Buddhist images and mantras on the surrounding granite.
• The valley setting - hills and pasture around the monastery bowl.
• The returned community - monks resident again since restoration.

When to go

May to September for the roads, which are rough. Mornings for prayers if monks are present. Autumn colour in the valley is good. Winter is severe and services minimal.

Before you go

Restoration is partial and much of the site remains ruins. The road in is rough and Ondorkhaan itself is a long drive from Ulaanbaatar. Facilities are minimal, with a ger camp nearby. Interpretation is limited, so a guide adds a great deal.

Nearby

Ondorkhaan is southeast; Burkhan Khaldun lies northwest in the protected area.

Key facts