El Cielo Sandbar

El Cielo - "the sky," or better, "heaven" - is Cozumel's shallowest famous place: a sandbank off the southwestern shore where the Caribbean stands only waist-to-chest deep over blinding white sand for hundreds of metres. The name comes from its residents: constellations of cushion sea stars dotting the bottom like fallen stars, joined by stingrays gliding in formation, conch shells on the move, and needlefish stitching the surface. Boats anchor along the bar and the visit is simply this - stepping off into bathtub-clear turquoise, drifting, floating and standing in the middle of the sea with a drink from the cooler while frigatebirds hang overhead. Tours pair the sandbar with snorkel stops at Palancar's gardens or Colombia's shallows, making the classic Cozumel half-day. The ethics are the entry fee: sea stars die from handling and lifting from the water, and the marine park's rules - look, never touch, no reef-toxic sunscreen - are enforced by operators who intend to keep heaven open.

What you actually see

• The sea stars - cushion stars constellating the white sand.
• The standing sea - chest-deep turquoise to the horizon.
• The rays and conch - traffic across the bank.
• The reef stops - Palancar or Colombia snorkeling en route.

When to go

Calm mornings, December to August, for glassy water and full color; winter northers can cancel boats for a day. Weekdays thin the flotilla.

Honest expectations

It gets busy - this is the island's favorite boat stop, and midday sees a raft-up. Touching or lifting sea stars is prohibited and rightly policed. There is no shade but the boat's; hats and cover-ups earn their keep.

Nearby

Palancar and Columbia reefs neighbor the bank; Punta Sur's lighthouse park holds the coast just south.