Calakmul

Calakmul was one of the two great powers of the Classic Maya world, rival to Tikal across what is now the Guatemalan border, and it is buried in the middle of a vast biosphere reserve of tropical forest, which is why it carries a rare UNESCO listing for both its culture and its nature. Thousands of structures are recorded, of which a fraction is cleared, and its two great pyramids are among the largest the Maya built and can still be climbed. From the top, the forest runs to the horizon in every direction, broken only by the crowns of other temples pushing through the canopy, with howler monkeys roaring somewhere below. Because it is so far from anywhere, you may share it with a handful of people rather than a crowd.

History

Excavations show occupation from the Middle Preclassic to the Postclassic, and causeways linking Calakmul with El Mirador, Nakbe and El Tintal suggest close ties going back to the Preclassic; its dynasty may have come from the Mirador Basin and moved here after the great Preclassic cities collapsed. In the Classic period Calakmul was the seat of the Kingdom of the Snake, with some 50,000 people and 6,750 recorded structures, and its rivalry with Tikal dominates the period: from the second half of the 6th century to the late 7th Calakmul had the upper hand, until Tikal defeated it in a decisive battle in August 695 and, half a century later, beat its main allies, before both cities fell in the Classic Maya collapse. Cyrus Lundell of the Mexican Exploitation Chicle Company reported the site on 29 December 1931 and gave it its modern name, the city of the two adjacent pyramids; in ancient times its core was called Ox Te' Tuun, place of three stones (Wikipedia, Calakmul).

What to look for

• Structure II - the great pyramid, climbed for the view over unbroken canopy.
• The forest from above - other temples emerging from the trees to the horizon.
• The wildlife - howler and spider monkeys, toucans, and jaguar tracks on the road.
• The stelae - the carved monuments recording the city's dynastic history.

When to go

November to April is the dry season and the practical window; the rains make the long side road difficult. Arrive early, both for the wildlife along the access road at dawn and to climb before the heat. Allow a full day, since the drive in and out is long.

Good to know

Access is a genuine effort: sixty kilometres of narrow road off the highway, with several separate fees along the way, and the nearest accommodation is basic. There is no shade at the site and the climbs are steep with uneven steps and no railings. Facilities are minimal. That difficulty is exactly why it stays uncrowded.

Nearby

Becán, Chicanná and Xpujil's Río Bec sites are along the highway; Bacalar is three hours east.

Key facts