Tioman Island

Tioman lies off Malaysia's east coast, a steep volcanic island covered in rainforest and fringed by coral, with the twin granite spires of Nenek Semukut rising at its southern end and giving it a distinctive silhouette from the sea. Development has stayed low-key: a string of small villages along the west coast, chalets rather than resorts, and a single rough road that does not go all the way round, so getting between beaches often means a boat. The draw is the water, with easy snorkelling straight off several beaches, dive sites around the offshore islets, and turtles seen regularly, while inland a jungle trail crosses the island between villages through forest full of monitor lizards, hornbills and macaques. Waterfalls, a duty-free status that keeps drinks cheap, and a general absence of hurry complete the picture.

What you actually see

• Snorkelling and diving - the reefs off the beaches and around the offshore islets.
• The twin peaks - the granite spires at the island's southern end.
• The cross-island jungle trail - the forest walk between the coastal villages.
• The waterfalls - the cascades reached on short walks inland.

When to go

March to October is the season; the northeast monsoon, roughly November to February, brings rough seas, and much of the island's accommodation and the ferries shut down for it entirely. Visibility for diving is usually best from April to August. Book ahead over Malaysian school and public holidays.

Honest expectations

The island effectively closes for the monsoon, so a visit outside the season is often impossible rather than merely wet, and ferry schedules change with sea conditions. Facilities are simple and cash matters, as card acceptance and cash machines are limited. Reefs have suffered bleaching in places, so conditions vary between sites. Getting between beaches usually means paying for a boat, which adds up.

Nearby

The Mersing archipelago's smaller islands lie between here and the mainland; Kuala Lumpur is about five hours away by road and ferry.