Maliau Basin

Maliau is a near-circular basin walled by a sandstone escarpment that kept it out of reach for most of the twentieth century. Inside are heath forest, montane forest and the multi-tiered Maliau Falls, along with pitcher plants growing in mats on the poor soils. Almost no one lives here and there is no road inside the rim: visitors sleep in simple camps linked by trails and walk between them carrying what they need. The studies centre near the entrance handles permits and guides, and shorter loops let people who do not want the full trek see the forest edge and a canopy walkway without committing to several days of climbing.

What you actually see

• Maliau Falls - the tiered cascade at the heart of the basin, a two-day walk in.
• Pitcher plants - dense stands of Nepenthes on the heath forest ridges.
• The escarpment rim - the sandstone wall that isolates the basin, seen from the plateau trails.
• Camp-to-camp trekking - simple huts linked by steep, root-tangled trails.

When to go

March to September is the drier stretch, which matters because the trails involve river crossings that rise fast after rain. Permits and camp beds are limited and must be arranged well ahead through the conservation area office or an operator. Trekking parties start early, since afternoon storms are common in any month.

Honest expectations

This is a genuinely hard trip: steep gradients, mud, leeches and heavy packs, with camps offering bunks, cold water and little else. Wildlife is heard far more than seen, because the forest is thick and the animals are not habituated. The road in is long and rough, and independent walking is not permitted, so costs stay high for a small group.

Nearby

Tawau and its hills park lie south; Danum Valley is the other large protected forest in eastern Sabah.