Batang Ai

Batang Ai is a hydroelectric reservoir that flooded a river valley in the 1980s, and in places the drowned trees still stand in the shallows. Longboats run from the dam jetty to Iban longhouses along the arms of the lake and to the lodge on the far shore, and the crossing itself, past forested ridges with no roads on them, is a good part of the trip. Behind the lake, Batang Ai National Park connects to the Lanjak Entimau sanctuary, and together they protect one of the largest wild orangutan populations in Sarawak, though these are unhabituated animals and finding a nest is far more likely than finding an ape.

What you actually see

• The longboat crossing - an hour or more across the reservoir between forested ridges.
• Iban longhouses - riverside communities reachable only by water.
• Batang Ai National Park - trails and guided treks into wild orangutan habitat.
• Drowned forest - dead trees standing in the shallows of the flooded valley.

When to go

March to September is drier, which helps on the trails but can drop the lake level and lengthen boat journeys. Trekking parties leave early to beat the heat. Longhouse stays and the lodge take small numbers and want booking ahead, and boat transfers are arranged around arrivals rather than run to a schedule.

Honest expectations

The road from Kuching is long and the last stretch is rough. Orangutan sightings in the park are uncommon and treks are hot, steep and leech-ridden, so anyone expecting Semenggoh will be disappointed. Longhouse visits vary enormously, from genuine hospitality to a staged performance, and it is worth asking exactly what a package includes before paying.

Nearby

Sri Aman and the tidal bore on the Batang Lupar river; Kuching is a long drive west.