Balik Pulau

Balik Pulau means back of the island, and that is precisely what it is: the western side of Penang behind the central hills, reached over a winding road, where the development that covers the eastern strip has largely not arrived. The valley is paddy fields with hills behind, and the hillsides are orchards - durian above all, with Balik Pulau regarded by many Malaysians as producing the best in the country, so that in season the roadside stalls and the orchard visits become a serious industry with named varieties sold at prices that startle outsiders. Nutmeg is the other crop, made into juice, oil and preserves. The town itself is small with prewar shophouses, a large church, laksa stalls with a following, and cycling through the paddy is the standard way to spend a day.

What you actually see

• Paddy fields and hills - the valley behind the ridge, largely undeveloped.
• Durian orchards - hillside smallholdings and named varieties in season.
• Nutmeg smallholdings - the other crop, sold as juice, oil and preserves.
• A small shophouse town - with laksa stalls and a large church.

When to go

Durian season around June and July; any time for the paddy. A day.

Honest expectations

Durian season means crowds, traffic and high prices; out of season the orchards are shut. The hill road is winding and the bus is slow. It is rural - little to do beyond eating and cycling.

Nearby

The Penang National Park is north; George Town is over the hill.