Balik Pulau

Balik Pulau means back of the island, and that is precisely what it is: the western side of Penang behind the central hills, reached over a winding road, where the development that covers the eastern strip has largely not arrived. The valley is paddy fields with hills behind, and the hillsides are orchards - durian above all, with Balik Pulau regarded by many Malaysians as producing the best in the country, so that in season the roadside stalls and the orchard visits become a serious industry with named varieties sold at prices that startle outsiders. Nutmeg is the other crop, made into juice, oil and preserves. The town itself is small with prewar shophouses, a large church, laksa stalls with a following, and cycling through the paddy is the standard way to spend a day.

History

The British East India Company founded Balik Pulau in 1794 as an agricultural village and set up the first clove and nutmeg plantations here that year, since spice growing was encouraged to cover the island's administrative costs (Wikipedia, Balik Pulau).

What to look for

• Paddy fields and hills - the valley behind the ridge, largely undeveloped.
• Durian orchards - hillside smallholdings and named varieties in season.
• Nutmeg smallholdings - the other crop, sold as juice, oil and preserves.
• A small shophouse town - with laksa stalls and a large church.

When to go

Durian season around June and July; any time for the paddy. A day.

Things to know

Durian season means crowds, traffic and high prices; out of season the orchards are shut. The hill road is winding and the bus is slow. It is rural - little to do beyond eating and cycling.

Nearby

The Penang National Park is north; George Town is over the hill.

Key facts