Antananarivo Haute Ville

Antananarivo climbs a long ridge, and the Haute Ville at the top is the old royal city: narrow stepped lanes between tall brick and timber Merina houses with wooden balconies, churches on outcrops, and at the summit the Rova, the palace compound of the Merina monarchs that burned in 1995 and has been under long reconstruction since. From the terraces the city spreads below - red-tiled roofs, rice paddies pressed against the suburbs, and Lake Anosy with its jacaranda ring, purple for a few weeks each spring. It is a demanding, atmospheric city that rewards visitors who walk it with a guide.

What to look for

• The Rova palace compound - the royal hilltop and its reconstruction.
• The stepped lanes - staircase streets between tall Merina houses.
• Andafiavaratra Palace - the prime minister's pink palace and its collections.
• Lake Anosy and the jacarandas - purple flowering around the lake in spring.

When to go

The dry, cooler months from April to November are the most comfortable, with clear views from the ridge. Jacarandas around Lake Anosy flower around October and November. The capital sits high enough that evenings are genuinely cold in winter.

Good to know

Antananarivo is a poor and crowded capital with real petty-crime risk - walking with a guide, avoiding backstreets after dark and keeping phones out of sight are standard advice from residents. Traffic is severe and short distances take long. The Rova is still partially reconstructed. Air quality on still days is poor. Visitors who plan a guided day rather than wandering solo usually leave impressed rather than rattled.

Nearby

Ambohimanga's royal hill outside the city, Lake Anosy and the Analakely market.