Jaisalmer and the Thar Desert

Jaisalmer, the Golden City, rises like a mirage from the Thar Desert of western Rajasthan, its honey-coloured sandstone glowing in the sun. Its great fort is one of the very few in the world still inhabited, a living warren of lanes, temples and havelis within the walls, and the city is the gateway to the desert, where camel safaris carry visitors out to the rolling dunes to camp beneath the stars.

What to look for

• The living fort - the inhabited golden sandstone fort and its lanes.
• The havelis - the intricately carved sandstone merchant mansions.
• A camel safari - the trek out to the desert dunes.
• A night under the stars - camping among the sand dunes.

When to go

November to February for bearable temperatures, as the desert is fiercely hot much of the year; the winter nights are cold, so pack layers for a desert camp. The Desert Festival in winter brings music and camel races.

What to expect

It is remote in the far west near the Pakistan border, so reaching it is a long train or a flight. The living fort's popularity strains its old drainage and structure, so many now stay outside the walls to help preserve it. Camel safaris vary in quality and comfort, so choose a reputable operator.

Nearby

The dunes of Sam and Khuri and the Thar Desert spread around; Jodhpur is to the east.