Antoetra and the Zafimaniry Villages

The Zafimaniry live in about a hundred villages in the forested hills east of Ambositra, and their woodcraft was inscribed by UNESCO in 2003 as intangible heritage: houses and granaries assembled from interlocking timber without a single nail, with doors, window shutters and posts carved in geometric patterns that carry meaning about lineage and status. Antoetra is the only village reachable by vehicle and is consequently the most visited and the least representative; the older and better-preserved settlements such as Ifasina and Sakaivo are a walk of two to six hours further into the hills, through pine and eucalyptus plantation and remnant forest. Trekking between villages with a guide, sleeping in houses along the way, is how the area is properly seen. Deforestation has removed most of the hardwood the tradition depends on, which is the central problem the craft now faces.

What to look for

• Nail-free timber houses - buildings assembled entirely by joinery.
• Carved shutters and posts - geometric patterns with inherited meaning.
• Village-to-village trekking - footpaths through hill and forest country.
• Working carvers - craftsmen at the doorways of their houses.

When to go

April to November for the walking; paths become very difficult in the wet months. The hills are cold and misty at any season and rain is frequent. Treks are arranged in Ambositra or Antoetra.

Before you go

Antoetra alone is not worth the trip and feels commercialised; the villages beyond need a real walk. Guides and village fees are compulsory and add up. Accommodation is in village houses with no facilities. Photographing people and houses without asking causes offence here.

Nearby

Ambositra lies west; Fianarantsoa is south.