Ankarafantsika National Park

Ankarafantsika protects one of the last large blocks of western dry deciduous forest, a habitat that has been cleared almost everywhere else in Madagascar, and its accessibility is unusual: the park headquarters at Ampijoroa sits directly on the main road from Mahajanga, with bungalows and campsites at the gate. Eight lemur species live here, and Coquerel's sifaka is seen easily and at close range, along with the mongoose lemur and, on night walks, the tiny mouse lemurs. The bird list is one of the best in the country, with Van Dam's vanga and the sickle-billed vanga among the specialities. Lake Ravelobe beside the camp holds crocodiles and waterbirds, and a circuit of trails runs into the forest and out to a viewpoint over sandstone canyons. It is a component of the Andrefana Dry Forests World Heritage property.

What you actually see

• Coquerel's sifaka - white and chestnut lemurs at close range.
• Lake Ravelobe - crocodiles and waterbirds beside the camp.
• Vangas - the endemic birds that draw specialist visitors.
• Night walks - mouse lemurs and chameleons after dark.

When to go

April to November, the dry season, when trails and the road are reliable. Lemur activity is best early and late. November brings the first heat and the last comfortable conditions before the rains.

Honest expectations

Accommodation at the gate is basic bungalows and camping, with limited food. It is hot and dry, and midday is dead for wildlife. Guides are compulsory and quality varies, so a bird-focused visit needs a specialist arranged in advance. The forest is dry and thorny rather than lush.

Nearby

Mahajanga lies northwest; Anjohibe caves are north of the city.