Wat Si Muang

Wat Si Muang is built around the lak muang, the pillar that marks the founding of the city, and it is the temple Vientiane actually uses. People come here to have a car blessed, to ask for a child, to mark a new job or a new house, and the ritual runs continuously through the day: kneel, offer flowers and candles, take a white cotton thread on the wrist from the monk. The site is older than the current buildings, and a legend about the woman who gave her life at the raising of the pillar is attached to it.

What you actually see

• The pillar shrine - the inner room built around the city pillar, where the blessings are given.
• The blessing ritual - offerings, chanting and the white thread tied on the wrist.
• The outer hall - a working prayer hall busy from early morning.
• The park behind - a small compound with a statue of King Sisavang Vong.

When to go

Year-round and all day, though early morning and early evening are when the temple is fullest and most alive. Lao New Year in April is exceptionally busy. Buddhist holy days bring large crowds.

Honest expectations

This is not a monument to look at: it is a functioning temple where people are doing something personal, and the appropriate posture is to stay at the edge unless you are participating. Dress covering shoulders and knees is required. Architecturally it is unremarkable compared with the older temples in town.

Nearby

The riverfront and Wat Si Saket are a short way west along Setthathirath Road.