Lake Ol Bolossat

Ol Bolossat sits in a shallow basin between the Aberdare range and the Rift escarpment at around 2,300 metres, and it is the only natural lake in central Kenya, feeding the Ewaso Ng'iro river that runs north into Samburu country. It is shallow and fringed with reeds and papyrus, which makes it excellent for birds: over three hundred species have been recorded, including large numbers of storks, herons, ducks and the grey crowned crane that is the local emblem, and it is an important stop for migrants. Hippos live in the deeper sections. The lake was gazetted as a protected area in 2018 after years of pressure from drainage, farming encroachment and water abstraction, all of which had shrunk it badly. Access is through community groups at several points, and birding is best done with a local guide who knows the water.

What you actually see

• The reed wetland - shallow water and papyrus fringes below the Aberdares.
• Grey crowned cranes - among the most visible of the lake's birds.
• Hippos - present in the deeper parts of the lake.
• Highland setting - the Aberdares one side, the Rift escarpment the other.

When to go

Dry seasons for access tracks; the birding is good year-round with the widest variety from November to March when migrants are present. Early morning is best for both birds and light. It is cold at this altitude in the early hours.

Honest expectations

Facilities are essentially nonexistent: no hides, no visitor centre, and access arranged informally through community groups. Tracks are rough. The lake has shrunk and its edges are farmed right up to the water in places. Bring your own binoculars.

Nearby

Thomson's Falls is at Nyahururu; the Aberdares rise to the east.