Aberdare National Park

The Aberdares run north to south for about a hundred kilometres, rising from dense montane forest through bamboo into open moorland above three thousand metres where giant lobelias and groundsels stand in the tussock grass, a landscape that feels nothing like the savannah most visitors come to Kenya for. Streams off the plateau cut deep ravines and fall in long drops, including Karuru, Gura and Chania. The forest holds elephant, buffalo, black rhino, bushbuck and the melanistic leopards and serval that this range is known for, though the vegetation makes sightings a matter of luck. The park's most distinctive experience is the tree hotels, Treetops and The Ark, built over waterholes with floodlights and viewing decks so guests watch animals through the night rather than driving out to find them. Weather is wet, cold and misty for much of the year.

What you actually see

• Moorland and giant plants - lobelias and groundsels above the treeline.
• The waterfalls - Karuru, Gura and Chania dropping off the plateau.
• Tree hotel waterholes - floodlit night viewing from Treetops and The Ark.
• Forest wildlife - elephant, buffalo, bushbuck and, with luck, melanistic leopard.

When to go

The drier windows, January to March and June to October, for passable tracks; the moorland roads turn to mud in the rains and 4x4 is essential year-round. It is cold at altitude, near freezing at night, which surprises visitors packing for safari heat.

Honest expectations

Dense vegetation means far fewer sightings than in the savannah parks; visitors expecting Maasai Mara density leave disappointed. Mist and rain can close in for days. Tracks are rough and vehicles get stuck in the wet. Tree hotel bookings are made through their parent lodges and transfers are fixed.

Nearby

Ol Pejeta and Solio lie north; Nyeri and the Central Highlands are east.