Takayama Old Town

Takayama grew rich on timber and craftsmanship in the mountains of Hida, and its old town survives as one of Japan's most atmospheric: streets of dark latticed wooden houses, sake breweries marked by cedar balls hanging over their doors, and canals running under little bridges. Morning markets have run here for centuries, farmers selling pickles and mountain vegetables along the river, and twice a year the town holds one of Japan's most celebrated festivals, parading ornate gilded floats that rest the remainder of the year in their own museum hall. Ringed by alps and famous for Hida beef, it is the classic base for Japan's mountain heartland.

What you actually see

• Sanmachi Suji - the three preserved streets of merchant houses, breweries and workshops.
• The morning markets - riverside stalls of produce, pickles and crafts, running since the Edo era.
• The festival float hall - the gilded, marionette-topped floats of the spring and autumn festivals.
• Hida beef - the local wagyu, served from street skewers to full dinners.

When to go

Spring and autumn bracket the two festival dates in April and October, when the town is at its most spectacular and most booked - reserve months ahead for those. Winter buries the streets photogenically in snow and pairs perfectly with nearby onsen; summer is green and cooler than the lowland cities.

Honest expectations

Takayama's fame has grown and the main preserved streets fill with day visitors by late morning - stay the night and the town reverts to its quiet self by evening. The old town is compact, seen in a slow half day, which is exactly why the overnight pairing with Shirakawa-go or an onsen village works so well. Hida beef skewers on the street are the best cheap luxury in the Alps.

Nearby

The thatched village of Shirakawa-go is under an hour away by bus; the Okuhida onsen villages lie toward the high peaks.