Shodoshima

Shodoshima is the second largest island in the Seto Inland Sea and grows olives - the first successful commercial planting in Japan, from 1908, when the government trialled several sites and only this one took. The groves are still there and the island sells oil, cosmetics and olive-fed beef on the back of it. The other industry is older: soy sauce has been brewed here for four centuries in wooden barrels in cedar-boarded sheds, and a cluster of working breweries around Hishio no Sato can be walked through, with the smell hanging over the whole district. Angel Road is a tombolo linking small islets, exposed for a few hours around low tide and submerged the rest of the time. Kankakei, a gorge on the island's interior, has a ropeway and is one of the better autumn colour sites in western Japan.

What you actually see

• Olive groves - the first commercially successful planting in Japan, from 1908.
• Soy sauce sheds - four centuries of barrel brewing in cedar-boarded buildings.
• Angel Road - a tombolo walkable for a few hours around low tide.
• Kankakei gorge - a ropeway and strong autumn colour in the island's interior.

When to go

March to November; November for Kankakei. Two days. Check the tide for Angel Road.

Honest expectations

The island is large and buses are infrequent - a car or scooter makes a real difference. Angel Road is submerged most of the day and the timing must be planned. Ferries are weather-dependent. Peak triennale years bring heavy crowds.

Nearby

Teshima and Naoshima are west across the Inland Sea; Takamatsu is south.