Naramachi

Naramachi grew on the grounds of Gangoji, a temple that shrank from an enormous eighth-century compound to a small precinct, leaving its former land to merchants. The houses are machiya: narrow at the street and running back a long way, with an earth-floored passage down one side to a rear courtyard, a light well, and storerooms at the back. The proportions come from taxation - frontage width was the basis of the assessment, so building deep was the cheaper way to be big, and the same logic shaped Kyoto's houses. One house, Naramachi Koshi no Ie, is open free and is the clearest demonstration of the layout. Small museums, craft shops and cafes fill the lanes. Red cloth monkeys, migawari-zaru, hang in bunches from the eaves - one for each family member, hung to take on misfortune in their place.

What you actually see

• Deep narrow machiya - houses built long backwards because frontage was taxed.
• The earth passage - a through corridor along one side to a rear courtyard and light well.
• A free demonstration house - Koshi no Ie, laid out to show the plan.
• Red cloth monkeys - hung under eaves, one per family member, to take on misfortune.

When to go

All year. Half a day. Weekday mornings are quietest.

Honest expectations

The district is residential and small - it is a walk rather than a sight. Many shops close early and on Wednesdays. Few houses are open. Gangoji, the temple it grew from, charges separately.

Nearby

Nara Park and Todaiji are north; Kasuga Taisha is north-east.