Kiyomizu-dera

The temple was founded in 778 around a spring on the Otowa hillside - the name means pure water - and the present main hall dates from 1633. Its stage projects thirteen metres out from the slope on a lattice of 139 zelkova pillars, joined entirely by traditional carpentry with no nails in the structural frame, and the view from it over Kyoto is the standard image of the city. The Japanese expression about jumping off the Kiyomizu stage, meaning to take a decisive plunge, refers to an Edo-period practice of doing exactly that; records list well over two hundred attempts, most survived, and it was banned in 1872. Below the hall the Otowa waterfall splits into three streams caught in cups on poles - for longevity, love and study, with the local advice being to drink from one rather than greedily from all three. The approach streets are steep, stepped and heavily commercial.

What you actually see

• The stage - thirteen metres out from the hillside on 139 pillars, nailless joinery.
• The Otowa waterfall - three streams caught in long-handled cups below the hall.
• The city view - Kyoto spread out from the stage rail.
• The approach streets - Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, stepped and lined with shops.

When to go

Late November for maples, April for cherry, or early morning any time. Two to three hours.

Honest expectations

It is one of the most crowded sites in Japan and the approach can be shoulder to shoulder. The climb up Sannenzaka is steep and stepped. Night openings in the colour season queue for hours. Only drink from one waterfall stream - taking all three is considered greedy.

Nearby

Gion is north-west; Sanjusangendo is west.