Gapsa Temple

Gapsa sits on the western slope of Gyeryongsan and is one of the older foundations in the country, traditionally dated to the fifth century, though what stands is Joseon rebuilding after the sixteenth-century wars. The single object most worth seeing is not a hall: a wrought-iron flagpole in the courtyard, made in 679, twenty-four cylindrical iron sections stacked on stone supports, the only complete iron danggan surviving in Korea. The temple also holds a large hanging Buddha painting used outdoors on festival days, a bronze bell, and a stone stupa. The setting is the draw for most visitors - the old Korean saying pairs spring at Donghaksa with autumn at Gapsa, and in late October the valley walk from the gate up through maple and oak is genuinely one of the better ones in the region, which also makes it the most crowded few weekends of the year.

What you actually see

• The iron flagpole - twenty-four sections standing since 679.
• The autumn valley - the maple approach from the gate.
• The Joseon halls - rebuilt after the wars, on the slope.
• The hanging painting - shown outdoors on festival days.

When to go

Late October to early November for the colour, accepting the crowds; April to June is quiet and pleasant. Weekday mornings are far calmer.

Honest expectations

Ticketed as part of the national park, with a walk in from the gate. It is a working monastery - halls may be in use. In peak autumn the parking and the path are both full.

Nearby

Donghaksa is on the other side of Gyeryongsan; Gongju's Baekje sites are 20 km off.