Nanzenji

Nanzenji was founded in 1291 on the site of a retired emperor's villa and ranks above the Kyoto Five Mountains in the Rinzai Zen hierarchy - the head temple of the whole school. Its sanmon of 1628 is enormous and can be climbed for a view over the trees. The unexpected thing in the grounds is Suirokaku: a brick and stone aqueduct on arches, built in 1888 as part of the Lake Biwa Canal to bring water and hydroelectric power to Kyoto, driven straight through the temple compound in a Western engineering idiom that was intensely controversial at the time and now looks as though it has always been there. Water still runs in the channel on top. The hojo garden, attributed to Kobori Enshu, is a dry landscape of raked gravel with a group of stones read as tigers crossing a river. Several subtemples open separately, including Konchi-in and Tenju-an.

What you actually see

• Suirokaku - an 1888 brick aqueduct on arches running through the temple grounds.
• The 1628 sanmon - a very large gate, climbable for a view over the trees.
• The hojo garden - a dry landscape attributed to Kobori Enshu.
• Subtemples - Konchi-in, Tenju-an and others opening on separate tickets.

When to go

Late November for maples; all year for the aqueduct. Two to three hours.

Honest expectations

Almost everything inside is ticketed separately and the total mounts. The aqueduct area is crowded with photographers. The sanmon climb is steep and in socks. November brings very heavy crowds throughout.

Nearby

The Philosopher's Path starts here and runs north to Ginkakuji.