Reggae Sumfest

Running since 1993, Sumfest is the biggest music festival in the Caribbean and the main showcase for Jamaican music at home. The week builds through beach parties and a sound system night to two main nights at Catherine Hall: one traditionally given to dancehall and one to reggae, though the split has blurred. Sets run from late evening until the sun comes up, and the closing act frequently plays into full daylight, which is a Jamaican festival convention rather than an accident. International acts appear but the bill is dominated by Jamaican artists, and the crowd is largely Jamaican and diaspora rather than tourist.

What you actually see

• The main nights - two long nights at Catherine Hall running past sunrise.
• The sound system night - selectors and stacks before the main stage nights.
• The beach parties - daytime events across the week.
• The crowd - largely Jamaican and diaspora rather than visiting tourists.

When to go

The festival runs in July, with dates announced months ahead. Accommodation in Montego Bay books out and prices rise sharply. Nights start late, around ten, and run until dawn, so plan the days for sleeping.

Honest expectations

Sets run extremely late and start times slip by hours, which visitors used to punctual festivals find frustrating. It is loud, crowded and hot, with limited seating. Ticket prices have risen considerably. Getting back to a hotel at five in the morning needs a plan made in advance. Some of the dancehall repertoire includes lyrics many visitors will find objectionable.

Nearby

Montego Bay's Hip Strip and beaches are the base; Negril is ninety minutes west.