Bistecca alla Fiorentina

The bistecca is a porterhouse or T-bone cut from the loin, traditionally from Chianina cattle, one of the oldest and largest breeds in Italy, aged and cut at least three fingers thick, usually well over a kilo. It goes on a wood or charcoal grill, is salted after searing, is turned once and stood on the bone, and comes to the table rare in the middle. Asking for it well done is refused in serious places, since the thickness makes that a different dish. It is sold by weight, priced per hundred grams or per kilo, and is a shared order for two or more.

What you actually see

• The Chianina beef - a large ancient Tuscan breed used traditionally.
• The thickness - three fingers minimum, usually over a kilo.
• The coal grill - seared over wood embers, turned once, stood on the bone.
• The pricing - sold by weight and shared, not portioned per person.

When to go

Year-round; the classic setting is an old-town trattoria or a country steakhouse in the Chianti hills. Booking is normal for evenings.

Honest expectations

It is served rare and most places will not cook it through. Weight pricing means the bill can surprise. Not every restaurant advertising it uses Chianina.

Nearby

Florence's markets sell the cuts; the Chianti hills lie south.