San Miniato al Monte

Begun in 1013 on the spot where Minias, an early martyr, was said to have carried his own severed head, the basilica is the finest Romanesque building in Tuscany, faced in white Carrara and green Prato marble in geometric panels that the Renaissance later imitated. Inside, a marble zodiac is set into the nave floor, dated 1207, aligned so a shaft of light strikes the Cancer sign around the summer solstice. The Chapel of the Cardinal of Portugal is a complete Renaissance ensemble. Olivetan monks live here and sing Gregorian chant at vespers, which visitors may attend.

History

Legend says Minias, an Armenian prince in the Roman army under Emperor Decius, was beheaded outside Florence, picked up his head, crossed the Arno and walked up the hill to his hermitage. The present church was begun in 1013 by Bishop Alibrando with the support of Emperor Henry II, and the monastery passed from the Benedictines to the Cluniacs and in 1373 to the Olivetans, who still run it (Wikipedia, San Miniato al Monte).

What's there

• The marble facade - green and white geometry above the whole city.
• The zodiac floor - a 1207 marble zodiac aligned to the solstice light.
• The Portuguese chapel - a complete Renaissance funerary ensemble.
• The chanted vespers - Gregorian chant sung by the resident monks.

When to go

Year-round; vespers are sung in the late afternoon, earlier in winter. The basilica closes for a midday break in some seasons. The climb is best in cool weather.

Good to know

The walk up is a genuine climb with steps. Midday closure catches visitors out. Vespers are a service, not a performance, and quiet is expected.

Nearby

Piazzale Michelangelo is just below; the Bardini garden lies further down.

Key facts