Clonmacnoise

Clonmacnoise sits on a low ridge where the Shannon meets an ancient east to west routeway, which is why a monastery founded here in the sixth century by Ciaran grew into one of the most important religious and scholarly centres in Ireland. What survives is a compact field of stone: a small cathedral, a scatter of churches or their fragments, two round towers, one of them attached to a church, and a large collection of early Christian grave slabs. The great high crosses have been moved indoors to escape the weather, with replicas standing in their original places. The river is a few steps away and often carries slow boat traffic.

History

In 544 Saint Ciarán, a young man from Rathcroghan, arrived here with seven companions and founded the monastery where the great east to west route, the Slighe Mhor, meets the Shannon after crossing the Esker Riada, and here he met Diarmait mac Cerbaill, later the first Christian High King. Until the 9th century the monastery had close ties with the kings of Connacht, and it was largely abandoned by the end of the 13th century (Wikipedia, Clonmacnoise).

Highlights

• The Cross of the Scriptures - the carved high cross, now sheltered inside the visitor centre.
• O'Rourke's Tower - the round tower standing over the churches, its top open to the sky.
• The grave slabs - hundreds of inscribed early stones, many displayed under cover.
• The Shannon setting - river meadows and callows spreading on three sides of the site.

When to go

Open year round, with the longest hours from June to August and a much shorter winter day. Coaches arrive mid-morning and the site empties again by late afternoon, so early or late suits better. The riverside meadows flood in winter, and the whole place is open to wind off the water in any season.

What to expect

The originals of the crosses stand indoors and the outdoor stones are copies, which disappoints some visitors. This is a low field of roofless walls rather than a standing monument, so the interpretation carries the visit. Coach tours dominate midday, the towers cannot be entered, and there is nothing at the site but a car park.

Nearby

Athlone and its castle are twenty minutes north; the Shannon callows run along the river.

Key facts