Achill Island

Achill is the largest island off the Irish coast and you reach it by bridge, so it feels less like an island than a continuation of Mayo that has run out of shelter. The west end holds Keem Bay, a horseshoe of sand under steep green slopes at the end of a narrow cliff road, and behind it the Croaghaun cliffs drop to the sea from the ridge, reachable only on foot. Slievemore rises over the north coast with the Deserted Village on its lower slope, close to a hundred roofless stone houses left in the nineteenth century. Basking sharks pass Keem in early summer and were once caught here commercially.

What you actually see

• Keem Bay - the sand beach in a cliff horseshoe at the end of the west road.
• The Croaghaun cliffs - a high sea cliff wall on the western ridge, walk-in only.
• The Deserted Village - roofless stone houses along the slope of Slievemore.
• The Atlantic Drive - the southern coast loop above Achill Sound.

When to go

June to September for swimming at Keem and the best chance of the west end being clear of cloud. Basking sharks are most likely in late spring and early summer. The island empties from October and much of what serves visitors shuts, which some people prefer. Weather changes within an hour here in any month of the year.

Honest expectations

The road down to Keem is narrow, steep and edged by a drop, and the small car park fills by late morning in July and August. The beach is fine and very cold. The Croaghaun cliffs need a long pathless walk over bog with no barrier at the top. Away from Keem the island is bleak in poor weather and services are thin.

Nearby

Westport is an hour east; Clew Bay and Croagh Patrick sit on the way.