Nusa Penida

Nusa Penida lies across a strait from southeast Bali and looks nothing like it: dry, hilly limestone country with almost no rice, and a coast of cliffs dropping straight into blue water. The famous view is Kelingking, where a spur of rock runs out to sea above a beach almost nobody reaches. Elsewhere there is Angel's Billabong, a tidal pool cut into the rock shelf, Broken Beach with its natural arch, and Diamond and Atuh beaches on the east side. Underwater the island is the reason many people dive Bali at all, with cleaning stations where reef mantas gather and, in the cold months, the occasional oceanic sunfish.

What you actually see

• Kelingking - the headland viewpoint above a long beach, reached by a steep bamboo stair.
• Angel's Billabong and Broken Beach - a tidal rock pool and a collapsed sea arch on the west coast.
• Manta Point - the cleaning station on the south coast where reef mantas circle.
• Diamond Beach - a cove on the east side below carved cliff steps.

When to go

April to October brings calmer crossings and better visibility underwater; the strait can be rough and boats are cancelled in bad weather. Sunfish appear mainly between July and October in cold upwelling water, which is also when the currents are strongest. Stay overnight rather than doing a day trip, which wastes most of the day on boats.

Honest expectations

The island's roads are narrow, steep and in poor condition, and scooter accidents are common among visitors who have not ridden before. Kelingking is now a queue for the same photograph, with a car park to match. Diving here means strong, cold currents and is not for beginners. Water and waste infrastructure has not kept up with the number of arrivals.

Nearby

Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan are a short boat hop north.