Ashur

Ashur stands on a rocky spur above the Tigris where the river turns, and it was the original capital of the Assyrian empire and the seat of its national god, who carried the same name as the city; even after the capital moved to Nimrud and then Nineveh, kings continued to be crowned and buried here. Occupation runs from the third millennium BC through the Parthian period. What survives is the ziggurat mound, temple platforms for Ashur and for Anu and Adad, the remains of city walls along the bluff, and royal tombs cut into the rock. The site was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2003 and simultaneously placed on the list in danger, initially because of a proposed dam that was not built.

What you actually see

• The ziggurat mound - the eroded stepped platform above the river.
• Temple foundations - the precincts of Ashur, Anu and Adad.
• City walls - the defensive line along the edge of the bluff.
• Royal tombs - vaulted burials cut below the old palace.

When to go

October to April; summer temperatures on an unshaded mound are severe. Mornings are best for both heat and light. Access arrangements should be confirmed locally in advance rather than assumed.

Honest expectations

The site is eroded mudbrick and stone at low level, so it takes background reading to make sense of. There is no visitor centre and interpretation is minimal. Access requires local permission and arrangements, which change. There is no shade and no water.

Nearby

Nimrud lies north; Samarra is south along the Tigris.