Ubud

Ubud is the cultural and spiritual heart of Bali, a town set among rice fields and forested river valleys that has long drawn artists, dancers and seekers. Its royal palace and temples, traditional dance performances, art museums and craft villages, the mischievous Sacred Monkey Forest, and its yoga retreats and healthy cafes give it a serene, creative atmosphere, a green and cultured contrast to the beach resorts of the south.

What you actually see

• The Ubud Palace and temples - the royal palace and its evening dances.
• The Sacred Monkey Forest - the temple forest full of macaques.
• The art and craft - the museums, galleries and craft villages.
• The rice fields and yoga - the Campuhan ridge walk and retreats.

When to go

April to October, the dry season, for the best weather; evenings bring traditional dance performances at the palace and temples. It is a place to slow down over several days rather than rush.

Honest expectations

It has become very popular and, in the centre, traffic-choked and commercialised, its serene reputation strained by crowds; the magic is found in the quieter fringes, rice fields and ridge walks. The monkeys in the Sacred Forest are wild and will grab bags, glasses and phones. It is a base for exploring central Bali as much as a sight in itself.

Nearby

The rice terraces, the volcanoes and the temples of central Bali are close.