Gedong Songo

Gedong Songo means nine buildings, and that is the arrangement: a series of small Hindu shrines - nine temples in five groups - from the late eighth or early ninth century, contemporary with the earliest Dieng temples, set at intervals up the southern flank of Mount Ungaran between about twelve hundred and fifteen hundred metres, so seeing them all means a walk of a couple of kilometres climbing steadily with each group a little higher than the last. They are Shaivite, small, square and andesite, some restored and some fragmentary. Between groups three and four the path passes fumaroles and hot springs venting sulphur out of the hillside. The altitude means cool air and frequent cloud, and on a clear morning the view runs to Merbabu, Merapi, Sumbing and Sindoro. Horses are offered for the climb.

History

The temples date from the early period of the Mataram kingdom and are variously placed in the 8th or 9th century, with Williams, Dumarçay and other scholars putting them around 780-830 CE; all are dedicated to Shiva and Parvati. Dutch archaeologists rediscovered the site in the 19th century, when the temples were badly damaged and their stones lay scattered across the hill, and the complex has been considerably restored in recent decades (Wikipedia, Gedong Songo).

What to look for

• The shrines up the slope - Shaivite temples of the late 8th or early 9th century strung up the mountain flank.
• Sulphur vents on the path - fumaroles and hot springs between the groups.
• A climbing walk - a couple of kilometres, each group higher than the last.
• A four-volcano view - Merbabu, Merapi, Sumbing and Sindoro on a clear morning.

When to go

May to September; early morning before cloud. Half a day.

Good to know

Cloud closes the view most days by late morning. The climb is continuous and at altitude. Horse welfare on the path varies. Weekends are crowded with domestic visitors.

Nearby

Bandungan is below; Ambarawa and Rawa Pening are further down.

Key facts