Periyar Tiger Reserve

Periyar wraps around a large reservoir in the Cardamom Hills of eastern Kerala, its shoreline a ragged edge of drowned tree stumps standing in the water. Most visitors see it from a government boat that cruises the lake for about ninety minutes, watching the banks for elephant, gaur, sambar and otter, while wild boar and macaques hold the landings. Guided walks, bamboo rafting and longer trekking programmes, several of them run by former poachers turned guides, get you into the forest properly and are far better than the boat for atmosphere. Tigers are present but almost never seen. Spice plantations and cardamom estates press right up to the reserve boundary.

What you actually see

• The reservoir and dead tree stumps - the flooded valley that defines the park's look.
• Elephant and gaur at the shoreline - the animals most often spotted from the boat.
• Guided walks and bamboo rafting - slower ways into the interior with trained local guides.
• Cardamom and spice estates - the plantations that run right up to the reserve boundary.

When to go

October to March is drier and cooler and the most pleasant time for boat trips and walks. The hot months before the monsoon push animals down to the water and improve sightings. Heavy rain from June to September makes trails slippery and brings leeches. Book the early morning boat, which is quieter and better for wildlife than the crowded midday runs.

Honest expectations

The standard lake cruise is often full, noisy and distant from the animals, and many people find it underwhelming; the guided walks and rafting cost more but deliver much more. Thekkady town is a strip of shops and spice stalls with a fair amount of hard selling. Tiger sightings essentially do not happen here, despite the name of the reserve.

Nearby

The tea hills of Munnar are a few hours north and the coast lies down to the west.