Matheran

Matheran sits at about 800 metres on a flat-topped Sahyadri spur and it is the only automobile-free hill station in India: vehicles stop at Dasturi car park and everything beyond moves on foot, on horseback or by hand-pulled rickshaw, which keeps the town quiet in a way no other Indian hill town is. The ground is red laterite that stains shoes and clothes. A two-foot gauge railway, built in 1907 and part of the UNESCO tentative list, climbs from Neral in about two hours. Around thirty viewpoints line the plateau edge, and monkeys work the paths for food.

What you actually see

• The car-free town - horses, hand rickshaws and walking only.
• The toy train - a 1907 two-foot gauge line climbing from Neral.
• The red laterite paths - earth that stains everything it touches.
• The viewpoints - around thirty overlooks along the plateau rim.

When to go

October to May; the monsoon closes the toy train and makes paths treacherous, though the plateau is green. May holidays and weekends are extremely busy. Summer is mild at altitude.

Honest expectations

Everything arrives on foot or by horse, including luggage, and porters charge accordingly. The red dust stains clothing permanently. Monkeys snatch food and bags. The toy train service is frequently suspended.

Nearby

Neral lies below; Karjat is nearby on the Mumbai line.