Lingaraj Temple

Bhubaneswar once held hundreds of temples and several hundred survive, of which Lingaraj, built mainly in the eleventh century, is the largest and the fullest statement of the Kalinga style: a deul, the curved tower, rising about fifty-five metres over the sanctum, with a jagamohana assembly hall, a dancing hall and an offering hall in line before it, all within a walled compound holding scores of subsidiary shrines. The lingam inside is svayambhu, uncarved, and is treated as both Shiva and Vishnu, called Harihara, which is unusual. Non-Hindus are not admitted but a raised platform beside the wall was built for viewing.

What you actually see

• The fifty-five metre deul - the curved Kalinga tower over the sanctum.
• The four halls in line - sanctum, assembly, dancing and offering halls.
• The compound shrines - scores of smaller temples within the walls.
• The viewing platform - the raised wall-side vantage for non-Hindus.

When to go

October to March; Shivratri brings very large crowds. Bhubaneswar summers are severe. Mornings are best from the viewing platform, with light on the tower.

Honest expectations

Non-Hindus cannot enter and see only the exterior from a platform. Photography from inside is prohibited. Guides and priests at the platform ask for donations insistently.

Nearby

Mukteshwar and Rajarani temples are close; Udayagiri caves lie west.