Jaldapara National Park

Jaldapara covers around two hundred and sixteen square kilometres of riverine grassland and forest along the Torsa in the Dooars, the belt of plain below the eastern Himalaya, and its grassland holds the largest one-horned rhinoceros population in West Bengal and the second largest in India after Kaziranga. Elephants, gaur, sambar, hog deer and leopard live here, and the bird list includes the Bengal florican. Because the grass grows well above head height, viewing is done from vehicles on set routes and from elephant back on early morning rides, which are limited in number and allotted by draw.

What you actually see

• The one-horned rhinos - India's second largest population after Kaziranga.
• The tall grassland - Torsa riverine grass well above head height.
• The elephant safaris - early morning rides, limited and allotted by draw.
• The Bengal florican - a rare grassland bird recorded in the park.

When to go

October to April; the park closes for the monsoon from mid-June to mid-September. Elephant safari slots are few and must be booked well ahead. Winter mornings are cold and misty.

Honest expectations

Elephant safaris are heavily oversubscribed and allotted by lottery, often unavailable. Grass height limits visibility for much of the season. Accommodation near Madarihat is basic.

Nearby

Buxa reserve lies east; Bhutan is north.