Haji Ali Dargah

The dargah holds the tomb of Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari, a fifteenth-century merchant and Sufi saint, and it stands on a small rocky islet about five hundred metres off the Worli shore, connected by a narrow concrete causeway with no railing. At high tide the sea covers the causeway entirely and the shrine is cut off, so access follows the tide table; at low tide a stream of visitors of many faiths walks out along it past beggars and stalls. The white marble complex, rebuilt in Indo-Islamic style, has a courtyard, the tomb chamber with a silver frame, and separate sections for women.

History

The dargah was built in 1431 in memory of Sayyed Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari, a wealthy merchant of the Chishti order from Bukhara, who gave away his possessions, travelled the world and settled in Mumbai. Before his death he asked his followers not to bury him in a graveyard but to drop his shroud into the sea and bury him wherever it came ashore (Wikipedia, Haji Ali Dargah).

Highlights

• The causeway - a narrow walk to the islet, submerged at high tide.
• The white shrine - marble domes and minaret on the rock.
• The tomb chamber - the saint's grave under a silver-framed canopy.
• The mixed visitors - people of many faiths making the walk.

When to go

November to February; the causeway is passable only at low tide, so timing must match the tide table. The monsoon makes the crossing dangerous with waves breaking over it.

Before you go

The causeway is impassable for hours at a time and dangerous in rough weather. It is crowded and lined with insistent beggars. Heads must be covered and shoes removed at the shrine.

Nearby

Mahalaxmi temple lies north; the Dhobi Ghat is northeast.

Key facts