Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

The peninsula north of Isafjardardjup lost its last permanent residents in the middle of the twentieth century, when the farms and fishing stations there were given up, and it has been a nature reserve since. There are no roads in, no shops, no signal across most of it and no help nearby, so everything comes in on your back and leaves the same way. Boats drop walkers at a few landing points and collect them days later by arrangement. What you get for the effort is empty coast, the cliffs at Hornbjarg with birds packed on every ledge, and arctic foxes that have not been hunted here for decades and consequently do not run away.

What you actually see

• Hornbjarg - high sea cliffs on the north coast with seabirds nesting the full height of them.
• The arctic foxes - protected here for decades and untroubled by people at close range.
• Hesteyri - the abandoned settlement that serves as the usual landing and starting point.
• The passes - snow-filled crossings between fjords that stay hard going into July.

When to go

Late June to mid August is the whole season: boats run then and barely outside it, and the snow in the passes is finally passable. Crossings are booked well ahead and bad weather cancels them, which can mean an extra day sitting on a beach waiting. Nights are light enough that walking late into the evening is normal.

Honest expectations

This is a serious undertaking rather than a day out. There is no shelter between huts, rivers have to be forded, weather turns without warning and a twisted ankle becomes a satellite call and a long wait. Boats will not come early for you. Fog can cancel the views for days at a time. Anyone without multi-day experience and proper gear should not be here.

Nearby

Isafjordur is the base for boats and supplies, with the rest of the Westfjords south of it.