The Danube Bend

North of Budapest the Danube runs into the hills, swings hard to the right and heads south towards the capital, and this curve, the Danube Bend, is the prettiest stretch of the river in Hungary. Three towns share it. Szentendre, closest to the city and reachable on the suburban train, is a cluster of Mediterranean-looking lanes, Serbian Orthodox churches and galleries that has been an artists' colony for a century. Visegrád, further up, has the ruins of a royal citadel on a high ridge, and the view from its walls down onto the bend, with the river curving between wooded hills, is the classic Hungarian panorama. Esztergom, at the top of the curve, holds the largest church in the country, a vast domed basilica on a bluff over the water, with a bridge crossing to Slovakia beside it. Boats link the towns in summer, which is the loveliest way to see it.

What you actually see

• The Visegrád citadel view - the panorama down onto the river's curve from the ridge.
• Szentendre - the artists' town of lanes, galleries and Orthodox churches.
• Esztergom Basilica - the country's largest church, with a climbable dome.
• The river boats - the summer services linking the towns along the bend.

When to go

April to October, when the riverboats run and the hills are green; autumn colour along the bend is superb. Szentendre is easy year-round on the suburban train. Summer weekends bring crowds of Budapest day-trippers, especially to Szentendre.

Honest expectations

Szentendre is very close to Budapest and has become correspondingly touristy, with souvenir shops crowding the prettiest lanes; going early or on a weekday helps. Visegrád's citadel involves a steep climb or a taxi up, and the ruins themselves are modest, with the view being the real reward. Doing all three towns in one day is rushed unless you have a car.

Nearby

Budapest is an hour south; the Börzsöny and Pilis hills offer walking trails above the river.