Lei Yue Mun

Lei Yue Mun sits at the eastern entrance to Victoria Harbour, where the channel narrows to a few hundred metres, and the village along the shore works on a system: fish, crab, prawns, abalone and shellfish are bought live from the tanks of the seafood dealers along the lane, then carried to a restaurant which cooks them to order for a fee, so the two transactions are separate. The lane runs past an old quarry, a Tin Hau temple and out to a small lighthouse on the rocks with container ships passing close by. It is busiest in the evening and at festivals, and the walk in from the MTR passes through the old village.

What you actually see

• Live tanks along the lane - fish chosen before it is cooked.
• Cooking charged separately - the two-step system the village runs on.
• The lighthouse on the rocks - ships passing at the harbour narrows.
• The old quarry and Tin Hau temple - the village behind the seafood strip.

When to go

October to April for the walk; evenings for the atmosphere. Half a day. Weekends and festivals are busy and prices rise. Agree prices before anything is cooked or weighed.

Honest expectations

Pricing disputes are the standard complaint here: confirm the price per catty and the cooking charge in writing before agreeing. It is not cheap. The rocks by the lighthouse are slippery and dangerous in swell. The lane is scruffy.

Nearby

Yau Tong is north; the harbour narrows lie directly offshore.